Unfinished Business

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Here is a list of the things that were meant to be finished by now, and are not:

1. shirt
2. breeches
3. jacket
4. waistcoat
5. ladies’ period combinations

In a word, everything.

In another word, nothing. Nothing is finished, and it has been five weeks.

But does this bother me? Not particularly. It’s not only me. No one has finished anything. Some of the ladies are much closer than I am – jackets completed except for buttons and buttonholes, breeches you can wear with waistbands on – but in general we are all behind together. And that makes me feel not-so-bad.

In fact, I think I’ve done pretty well on the jacket seeing as I gave up an entire day to work on it. There’s still a ways to go, but the collar is on and the sleeves are pinned into place, so it actually looks like something! Here, look:

*hallelujah*

Seriously, arriving at the stage of setting in sleeves felt like reaching the promised land. Never mind that I need to even out the pleats and sew them in properly; let’s forget about all that for now and lookit some pretty pictures!

back view

back view detail

And yes, those are functional pockets!

So that’s the jacket. We officially switched gears on Thursday and started work on our waistcoats (which I thought I had taken photos of but apparently not so hey ho, coming soon). As much as I was hankering to actually finish something, it was nice to set the jacket aside and focus entirely on something else. Especially something fairly straightforward and – dare I say it? – simple, like a waistcoat.

Ok, well, not simple exactly. Welt pockets require a level of finesse that amounts to three hours’ work – more if you’re pattern-matching. In the end, I got the pockets done and a few bits together (I’m nearly the furthest one along, for once! It’snotaraceit’snotaraceit’snotarace), but I didn’t get as far along as Pauline had hoped. Her goal for the end of Friday had been to have the waistcoats entirely finished up to buttons and buttonholes, which on Thursday afternoon seemed reasonable. Turns out, it wasn’t.

The revised plan is to FINISH waistcoats tomorrow (god help us), and make a start on the next project on Tuesday: corsets and bustle cages. As for the unfinished Regency menswear, we’ll just have to catch up as and when we can: late nights and early mornings, for days (possibly weeks) on end.

And I’m ok with that. Like I keep telling myself, things will take as long as they’re going to take, and so what if I have to stay late and come early? It’s only one summer, might as well get as much out of it as I can, and it’ll all be worth it in the end.

All Sewn Out

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Here’s a look at what my schedule has been like for the last few days:

6.00: Wake up
7.26: Catch train to York
8.17: Arrive in York
8.31-9.30: Get to studio, catch up on breeches
9.30-13.00: Work on jacket
13.00-14.00: Lunch
14.00-18.00: Work on jacket
18.00-19.50: Catch up on breeches
20.10: Catch train home
21.20: Arrive home, eat dinner, crash.

Basically, I’ve been putting in an extra two hours every day – and I’m still behind. This is not entirely my fault. On Monday we were all meant to come in in pairs for two-and-a-half hour blocks, during which time we could spread out on the tables and cut out the fabric for our jackets. My slot was 4-6.30. When I got there at 3.30, everyone who had been on the morning and midday blocks were still there, because that’s just how long everything took. Unfortunately our tailoring tutor had to leave at bang on 6.30, which meant that unlike everyone else that day, I didn’t get an extra five hours to work. In the end I spent the entire two hours readjusting my paper pattern, and which I didn’t finalize til Tuesday. I got there eventually:

wool/cashmere blend

curtain lining (satin-weave cotton)

Turns out there are lots and lots and lots of steps in tailoring. Here are a few:

reinforcing the lapel

padstitching

A bit clumsy, but effective all the same. Padstitching is to ensure that the lapel rolls back nicely. It’s all hand sewn. This is how you know you’re doing it right:

prickly fingers

Yeah, those are my flaky fingertips, thanks to dozens of teensy pricks with the needle.

That’s as far as I got on Tuesday, and started with pockets this morning:

reinforced skirt pieces with pockets

And on it went.

reinforced center back panels

sleeves in progress

(nearly) finished sleeves

And there’s STILL loads to do.

In other news, I finally finished the damn fall front on my breeches!!

red lining!

more lining

Needs a press. This fabric is a nightmare.

janky pillars are janky

And oh yeah, I’m taking tomorrow off because Ben and I are leaving to visit my parents in Broadstairs for the weekend! Eeee! Which means I have one less day to work on my jacket… but it also means a weekend at the seaside!!

Meh. I’ll make it up next week.

Rolling Merrily Along

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After a rocky finish to last week and an unproductive two-and-a-half-hour cutting session yesterday, I finally feel like I’m back on track! I had my jacket pattern finalized by 11 am, and then moved on to cutting out my wool and lining. I got as far as pad-stitching the lapels by 6pm, at which point I switched gears back to the breeches (which, might I add, I had been dreaming about). I didn’t finish the fall fronts, but I’ve got everything sewn and pinned in the right places. My plan is to go in early tomorrow morning, work on the breeches for an hour, then work on the jacket for the day along with everyone else, and then stay a bit later to work on the breeches some more. We shall see how it goes…

Pictures soon!

My own Mr. Darcy

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Yesterday Ben came in for his fitting. As it wasn’t until late afternoon I had plenty of time to get everything ready, including nearly finishing that damned shirt!!

Anyway, without further ado…

the shirt

the shirt and breeches

shirt, breeches, and waistcoat

just look at that collar

the full ensemble

Good news: everything fits! There are some tweaks here and there, but nothing major. So, first thing Monday morning we’ll be taking apart those toiles and finalizing the pattern.

And then it’ll be time to make it all up in the actual fabric! Eeeeeeeee.

I’ll finish this post with my favorite photo of the day:

Dapper? Me?